Fenghuang is the old town of Fenghuang County in western Hunan, on the Tuo River, in the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture. Its older name was Zhenzhu, and in the Qing dynasty it was a frontier garrison town, described in Chinese sources as having “six thousand residents and eight thousand soldiers.” It is best known for its riverside stilt houses and as the hometown of the writer Shen Congwen. The tourist area was rated 5A on 6 February 2024.
| County | 1,750.08 km²; about 360,000 residents; named a national historic and cultural city in 2001 |
|---|---|
| Tuo River | 131 km long, 96.9 km of it inside Fenghuang County; flows into the Yuan River |
| Garrison history | Fenghuang camp set up in 1569; Zhenzhu became one of the Qing empire’s 62 garrison commands in 1700 |
| Shen Congwen | writer, 1902 to 1988, born in Fenghuang |
| Tourist area | rated 5A on 6 February 2024 |
What the old town is
Fenghuang sits in hill country on the middle and lower Tuo River. In the Ming dynasty a garrison was set up here, and in 1700 the Qing raised it to a garrison command, one of 62 across the empire. The Qing abolished the local chieftain system in 1704 and moved the regional administration to the town. It grew prosperous under the Qianlong emperor. The population mix is Miao and Tujia: the Miao are the local people, and many Tujia came as soldiers, according to the county’s chronicle.
Sights in the old town
- The riverfront and Hongqiao. Houses on stilts line the Tuo River, and the Hongqiao Wind and Rain Tower stands on the bridge.
- Shen Congwen’s former residence and tomb. Shen was born in 1902 to a family of Han, Miao and Tujia background, left for Beijing in 1922, and became one of the leading Chinese writers of his time.
- Xiong Xiling’s former residence, Chongdetang and the city museum. The old town also has the ancient town tower and several museums.
Planning a visit
Fenghuang is usually a stop between Zhangjiajie and Guilin or Guizhou, or a night in the town itself, when the riverfront is lit. Check the current ticket rules, since the old town is a 5A area. The town is crowded on public holidays. For the rest of a route in China, see our guides to Guilin, Dali and our China tours.
Planning Fenghuang with Absolute Asia Tours
Absolute Asia Tours has planned private trips in Asia since 1989. For Fenghuang that means a hotel on the river, a driver from Zhangjiajie or Tongren, and a guide who can explain the Miao and Tujia history. We’re rated 4.8 out of 5 across about 900 traveler reviews. See our China tours or tell us your dates.
Sources (read in Chinese, Chinese Wikipedia): 凤凰古城, 凤凰县, 沈从文. Last checked November 2026.
Fenghuang: FAQ
What is Fenghuang known for?
A riverside old town of stilt houses on the Tuo River, a former Qing garrison, and the hometown of the writer Shen Congwen.
When was Fenghuang rated a 5A tourist area?
On 6 February 2024.
Who was Shen Congwen?
A Chinese writer born in Fenghuang in 1902 who died in 1988.
How long is the Tuo River in Fenghuang?
The river is 131 kilometers long, of which 96.9 kilometers run inside Fenghuang County.
How many days do you need in Fenghuang?
One night is enough to see the old town by day and by night.
Photo: Huangdan2060, Wikimedia Commons, CC0. The Tuo River at Fenghuang old town.
